SHOTS

    We give a Progard five-way booster at 7 weeks of age.  At close to 6 weeks, we give a kennel cough (Progard) booster.  We give two more boosters to our pups remaining here with us (10 weeks of age, and 13 weeks of age), and then at one year give them another regular booster and kennel cough booster.  Thereafter, we prefer an 18 month booster renewal and rabies as applicable to your county and/or state laws.  We recommend you spread shots out if giving annual kennel cough, rabies & booster; don't do them on the same day. Don't give shots when your dog is stressed, ill, or extremely active.  Don't booster earlier than one year apart; you can suppress or hyperimmune your dog's system, possibly even cause seizures.
    Upon taking your pup home, DO NOT expose your pup to other dogs, parks, ditches, dog shows and neighborhoods until your pup has had a minimum of 3 total booster shots and then be careful and reasonable in your pup's exposure.  Follow  your vet's recommended shot schedule.  Follow up with boosters including bordetella as your vet suggests.  WARNING:  NEVER let your vet give your dog Ivermecten.  It's been known to kill Aussies or cause seizures; IT'S NOT WORTH IT.  Ivermectin is in Heartgard!  Please use Interceptor instead of Heartgard.

WORMS/FLEAS/TICKS

    Your pup has been wormed with Nemex as appropriate.  Check the shot and worm schedule included in your puppy packet for exact dates so you can report accurately to your veterinarian the care your pup has received thus far.
    We use and recommend Interceptor.  It is the easiest on the Aussie's stomach and it also gets rid of other worms.  It is a monthly heartwormer.  If you have mosquitoes, travel where there are mosquitoes, show where there are mosquitoes, your dog is susceptible to heartworm.
    Check your dog's stools regularly.  If you see anything out of the ordinary, take a fresh stool into your vet.  Flies and mosquitoes can cause tapeworm.  Eating dung by cattle, horses, sheep, etc. can contribute to worms.  Chasing and consuming rabbits contributes majorily to tapeworm. Unchecked, worms can do irreparable harm to your dog's system and well being. We use Strongid for getting rid of tapeworms.
    Playing in pond water, ditch irrigation water, etc. can contribute to giarrdia.  Your dog will probably have signs of running diarrhea and the inability to gain weight.  Once again, have your dog's stool checked.
    We use and recommend Frontline as a deterrent for fleas & ticks.  This product has worked well for us.   Adams Flea & Tick spray used lightly also helps as an added deterrent when attending dog shows, hiking or camping, etc. Don't use Adams & Frontline together - it could immune suppress or cause a reaction in your dog.  Lyme disease can kill - protect your pet and protect you from these same bites!  Precaution can save lives, vet and medical bills.
    DO NOT GIVE YOUR AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD IVERMECTIN!  It can contribute to seizuring in herding dogs and/or lead to death.

CLEANLINESS

    Please pick up all dog stools in your yard and deposit them in a covered bucket.  Leaving stools laying around contributes to maggots and/or your dog eating their stools.  This doesn't even count the displeasure of your guests in having to step in such lovely deposits, your dog to roll in them, brown spots created on your lawn, additional flies and smell, your neighbor's disgust.

WATER/FOOD

    Your pup here at Legends has been eating PRO-PLAN PUPPY FOOD (chicken & rice).  We recommend your pup continue on a food of high quality and 26% to 30% protein through the THIRD or FOURTH month. If your pup is big, switch off the puppy food earlier. If your pup is staying moderate, your pup can remain on puppy food through the fourth month.  Thereafter, unless your pup is thin, your pup may eat adult dog food (preferably one without wheat or corn)' we recommend PRO PLAN TURKEY & BARLEY (90% of our kennel eats this dog food) or PROPLAN SENSITIVE SKIN SENSITIVE STOMACH (to those who can't seem to maintain coat or lick at feet or legs or just do better on a fish-based dog food) or PRO PLAN CHICKEN & RICE (pick the one your dog likes best and one on which your pup maintains weight and good coat condition).  Although the fish-based food sounds like a corrective dog food, it's simply a fish-based dog food that we have found produces a wonderful, healthy coat, smaller stools, and good weight.  Your pup, like you, may have to try different dog foods until the one is found that best suits your pup's taste and physical & mental needs.  Low grade dog foods can result in skin allergies or even medical problems (watch for corn & wheat additives; these are the worst dog food ingredients - watch for mold in all-natural products), so feed your dog as you would like to be fed if you were in your pup's place.  Meat (real meat not by products should be the first ingredient in your dog food). Your pup doesn't need high protein (30%); feeding high protein can contribute to pano, too fast a growth rate, hyperactivity, aggression, and excessive weight gain.  Allow your pup to grow slowly (22% to 26% protein is adequate); a tad thinner pup is normally healthier.  Do not give your pup additives to encourage growth.  These additives can contribute to pano or other bone growth problems due to too fast a growth rate or inappropriate growth rate; some could contribute to immune suppression.   We do give our dogs a Fish Oil Capsule which we purchase from Costco.  We simply drop it in their food at feeding time.  It's good for the immune system and their skin & coat.  Allow your pup to mature at it's own speed according to its genetics.  Aussies mature anywhere from six months to three years.  We supplement pups with ester c; this can up the odds in deterring bladder infections, colds, easty/westy growth in pasterns.  Once pups turn 5 months of age, they like all our adults get a fish oil capsul supplement and go on Next Level (a joint additive, all natural obtained through Omaha Vaccine) or on a chrondrointin/glucosamine (human version broken in half).   Once again, reiterating:   Pups can handle 30 to 26% protein (4 months & under); adults (even 5 mo. old pups) need only have 22 to 26% plus a fish oil capsule and joint additive of your choice as a preventative or as medication. Some dogs do not like fish at all; we recommend Nupro additive (not the dog food, the additive) for those dogs. It's all natural and our dogs did well on it when we used it. Feeding leftovers can contribute to many problems in your Aussie's digestive system.   Please stick to your dog food.  If you feel leftover meat is appropriate for your dog, cut it up in tiny pieces and use it for bait for training - do not feed it in large quantities to youur pup.  Do not allow anything with onions to be fed to your Aussie.  Dogs should not eat onions; they are deadly to dogs.  If you switch your dog's food, do so by mixing the new dog food with the old for a few days and then gradually withdraw the old dog food.  Add one tablespoon of yogart if your dog is having loose stools or indicating irritations in the bowel regions.  You can also add canned pumpkin as you desire.  DO NOT GET YOUR PUP FAT.  Try to maintain a sensible weight for your pup; it'll insure his growth plates close timely, joints are not stressed, and his activity level is normal.
    GROWTH PLATES:  Wrist (carpus) closes at about 5.5 months of age; Toes (phalanges) closes at about 6 months of age; Scapula (shoulder blade) closes at about 6.5 months of age; Hock (tarsus) closes at about 6.5 months of age; Front pasterns (metacarpals) closes at about 7 months of age; Rear pasterns (metatarsals) close at about 9 months of age; Forearm (radius/ulna) close at about 11 months of age; Second thigh (tibia and fibula) close at about 13 months of age; Thigh (femur) close at about 14 months of age, and Upper Arm (humerus) close at about 15 months of age.  Hips are normally mature at about age 24 months and that is when the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals will rate the hip xrays on any dog.  Take care not to injure your pup by playing frisbee, quick turning and jumping, prior to your pup's growth plates being closed.  You can easily injure the knee (cruciate ligament) via body slamming (playing too roughly with other dogs) or doing too much high jumping and twisting at breakneck speed, running dog runs, climbing fences, etc.  The bones of the body, spine and skull will continue to develop for up to two years.  Some Aussies mature at age two and some continue to mature until age four.  There is a big variance in maturation in the Aussie lineages.
We bed dog runs with lots of straw for warmth and comfort. We sprinkle in some cedar bedding to ward off bugs plus it smells goodJ   We bed crates with good dog beds.  Most of our dogs are house and outside dogs both and we try to keep them acclimated weatherwise so they can compete comfortably and without stress to their immune systems. Know if your pup prefers the indoors, the outdoors, a dog run, a crate, your back yard or all of these and then house your dog according to its and your needs. NEVER tie your dog up and leave it unsupervised. NEVER use an electric collar fence. Your dog can be attacked by other dogs. Protect your dog by giving it a safe environment in which to live. Build a dog run with wired bottom, wired sides and wired top so when you are gone, your dog cannot escape or be attacked by another dog plus is protected from the weather. Put in a doghouse for warmth and always be sure the water is fresh and clean. Clean the run twice a day. Bed as appropriate and your dog will stay healthy and safe. If using a crate, remove the dog's collar and don't crate for more than 2 hours for pups and more than 8 hours for adults. Give your pup or dog lots of exercise. Too small a crate contributes to growth problems, boredom and hyperactivity. Many a dog have chewed on the wires of the crates and ruined teeth. Give your dog safe chewbones to alleviate boredom. Play a radio to keep your dog company. House the crate where the temperament is reasonable. It can get very hot closed up in a crate. Dogs normally love their crates and consider them their doghouse. Choose their crate wisely and buy the best you can for your best bud.
    We recommend you do not free feed.  Monitor your dog's food intake.  Feed at the same time morning and night.  Your dog's metabolism will function much better and your dog will be more regular in the stool department also.  Avoid free feeding; it creates bad eating habits.  It's really a nuisance when traveling and free-fed pets often go entirely off their feed, pig out, or are problematic when traveling due to stomach upset or car sickness.  Free fed pets also often go off their dogfood altogether when traveling.
    Feed after exercise, never before.  Always be sure there is ample clean water available for your dog.  Some people prefer to wet the dog's food.  That's your and your dog's preference.  We prefer to feed dry so the teeth get a better workout and there is less deposit for tarter buildup.
    Don't feed junk doggy food for treats.  Read those labels!  Those additives can cause allergies or illness.  We recommend training with leftover table meat cut into tiny pieces or buying lo-fat hotdogs or string cheese and feeding small pieces. Remember feeding too much leftover meat ups the protein levels. Some dogs getting too much protein or too much corn or wheat can be hyper, chew legs or feet, or be stressed. Food intakes affects our dogs just as it does us.
    Expect your dog to eat lighter portions when showing or traveling.  Just like you, they are nervous and prefer not to eat as much while showing or performing.  Feed late in the evenings when your pet is not stressed.  Too many people panic and buy goodies for their dog to eat to encourage eating; this change in feed can cause further upset tummies and sometimes even diarrhea.  Your pet will not starve; continue to feed the diet to which your pet is accustomed when traveling.  Allow them to go off feed some if they desire.  Take with you some Nutracal (Omaha Vaccine or any pet store carries this) and give your pet some of it if you feel your pet is showing signs of lethargy or illness.  Keep electrolytes on hand. If you dog won't drink these, freeze them. Dogs often like ice cubesJ
    Seek veterinary attention timely if your dog is loosing weight, having skin problems, coat problems, lack of energy, or indicating lameness.  If you neuter or spay your dog, DO NOT EXERCISE YOUR DOG OR ALLOW YOUR DOG TO PLAY for at least a week following surgery.  They, just like people, need quiet appropriate recovery time and normally supervision to alleviate them pulling out their stitches.  Dogs following surgery get cold easier so be sure to keep them in a warm location upon their return home.  It takes time for the anesthesia to leave their body.

GROOMING

    Aussies have two coats, an undercoat and a top coat.  Be sure when brushing that you reach the undercoat.  We use and recommend a pin brush.  We only use a rake when our Aussies are shedding.  A pin brush will maintain the double coat nicely and give your dog a show look.  Remember your Aussie can be filthy one hour and nice and neat the next.  That's the plus side of a double coat.  Aussies shed normally twice a year.  Bitches may shed more as they'll shed prior to any heat cycle in addition to seasonally.  Spaying your bitch will alleviate most of your dog's shedding problems but alas not all of them. Spayed bitches carry a much bigger, heavier coat.  We use a stripper comb for any knots behind ears, a comb or rake for removing dead or loose hair at shedding time.
    Aussies need their teeth cleaned.  Buy them a doggy toothbrush and doggy toothpaste and periodically brush those teeth.  It'll save you money in the long run on cleaning bills or cavities or rotten teeth which in a dog can contribute to illness and infection.  Giving your dog a bone once in a while to gnaw on will help clean those teeth.  Remember to throw away those bones when they splinter or become small enough to swallow whole.  Many a rawhide, regular bone, horse hooves, or nylabone has broken off, splintered, or chipped into small pieces and ended up causing gastric upset that can sometimes result in death or very large vet bills.  So, watch those chew toys and remove them when they wear inappropriately.  Read the manufacturer's label warnings.  Check teeth regularly; catching a tooth problem can alleviate many a dental visit for your dog.  They too get cavities and infections. If your dog has a broken tooth, we recommend you get it pulled. Too many people ignore dental care for their dogs. Infections in the gums can go through their systems and cause more serioud problems. Seek vet care timely - you'll save money in the long run.
    We use color shampoos on our show animals.  You can buy these in the doggy catalogs.  We also use flea & tick shampoo (we prefer Lambert Kay's).  Oatmeal shampoo or Tea Tree Oil  is good for those dogs who are more sensitive.  Remember to rinse your Aussie very well as leaving any shampoo residue can contribute to hotspots.  We use Aussie conditioning products to enhance coat appearance and the product smells heavenly.  We also use Mane & Tail horse conditioner for sunscreen protection, especially on those white muzzles and in addition on the entire coat itself.  Just a little dab-l-do-ya, remember.  Failure to use sun protection on those muzzles or noses can contribute to skin cancer.  Protect your dog from excessive exposure to direct sunlight just like you do yourself. Use a #30 chapstick on your dog's nose; this will alleviate sunburn. Treat your dog in the sun as you would treat yourself.
    We trim the hair off underneath the pads and between the toes.  We leave hair covering the nails and trim neatly in an oval shape around the foot.  The foot should be covered in hair, not stripped completely bare.    We trim the hair on the pasterns and hock area by only tipping the ends to give a nice blunt look.  Do not cut the hair down to the skin.  This makes your Aussie's legs look skinny and out of proportion to its body.  Brush all the foot hair and leg hair straight up for a nice feathered fat-leg look.  Spritzing water on the leg will help or use lanolin (it's good for the dog's skin and your hands too).   Failure to trim hair under the pads can result in foot infections from burrs or mud impacting the area.  Additionally it contributes to improper growth if the dog is walking crooked on those pads. Leaving mud caked between the toes can result in a sore spot or infection. Take care of your dog's feet.
    Trim nails every two weeks; we refer to trim every week here whenever possible.  Letting them grow longer contributes to the quicks getting longer which makes for longer toe nails and more opportunity to break a toe nail off.  These can send you to the vet also.  You can use clippers, an electric nail file (dremel), or a steel nail file.  Take your time and don't cut too short.  Nails can rot from being improperly trimmed to short.  Some dogs need some nail protusion for traction dependent upon weather or terrain.  Be aware of your dog's needs.
    We trim the hair around the ears as is necessary with thinning shears or a stripper blade.  Watch for knots and don't cut the skin trying to cut one out; use a stipper blade - it works wonders on knots.  Neatly trimmed ears make for prettier headsets and deter knots, dirt and grime.  Don't go overboard and trim all the hair away.  A little is best.  You can't put back what you took off.  Don't get hair or water in the ear canal.
    We trim the bib or pants as necessary to balance the front to the rear for showing purposes.  We prefer them to be au-natural but sometimes it is just not practical.  Use thinning shears to even a dog's appearance and also to trim any topline cowlicks.  We sometimes have to trim the hair under the armpits.  Once in a while a dog will become irritated when it's hot and this alleviates any hot spots in that area.
    Periodically, we trim the tail sets to a nice smiley face or we thin the tail to give a neater appearance and alleviate nasty deposits being stuck in private areas.  Once you trim, only trim a little and then watch your dog walk off.  The tail set changes depending upon carriage and if you cut too short, you might see some private parts appearing where you didn't expect them to if you trimmed too short.  Tail set trimming can affect length of back, broadness of rear, etc so experiment to find the prettiest, most attractive and functional tail set trimming for your particular dog.
    We begin blow drying pups at 9 weeks of age.  We won't blow them completely dry as we prefer to remove the excess water and then allow them to airdry naturally.  We don't beg our pups to cooperate.  We demand they cooperate but we reward once done and talk them through any fear period.  We don't want our pups dependent upon food for grooming or bargaining with us for correct behavior.
    Teach your dog grooming manners from the get-go.  Do them by yourself without help.  Teach them to behave on your grooming table or your floor while you groom them from head to toe a minimum of every two weeks.  Doing this will enable you to keep tabs on the coat, feet, teeth and nail condition and catch any problem areas timely.  Grooming pups should, of course, be in short intervals until their attention span and patience can tolerate the full grooming regalia you desire. Remember to be firm but also exercise patience and reward for good behavior.

CRATING/POTTY TRAINING

    We recommend using a crate.  We prefer dogs not be crated as a general practice but many times your dog will need to be crated due to illness or injury, sleep quarters, travel, showing, run-pacing, low-weight, protecting them from company or children or vice-a-versaJ , etc. and crates are a must.  Put your crate in a quiet spot, add toys, water, safe chew bones and your dog will grow to love its crate.  It is actually a safe haven for most pets.  Use a crate appropriate to the size of your dog.  Using one too big allows your dog to "mess" in the crate.  Using one too small creates structural problems as well as stress.  Location should be draft free and safe from harm.  Remember to potty your dog regularly.  Making a dog hold their bladder can contribute to bladder infections.  This is a common occurrence among those who crate their dogs the entire time they are at work.  This is normally a too long of period for a dog to go without relieving itself.  Pups are normally good for about 3 to 4 hours.  If you suspect a bladder problem, give your pup some cranberry juice.  If the problem persists, see your vet.
    Bladders mature at different ages.  Your pup's bladder may leak upon excitement or stress.  Be aware and act appropriately by placing your pup in an area in which these leaks won't cause any damage or inconvenience.  Reprimanding will only worsen the situation.  Let your pup grow up at its own rate of speed.  That bladder will mature I assure you.  Some bladders can take up to one year to mature; patience is a virtue:) Spaying or neutering can sometimes contribute to leaks; be patient with your dog as they recover from surgery. Talk to your vet if you are concerned about bladder problems.
    If penning your pup, try to teach your pup to use one area of the pen for it's "potty" section.  This keeps the living space clean and orderly for other activities and alleviates you having to rebed the entire pen on a daily basis.  Use newspaper, shavings, or straw to indicate the potty area.

HOWLING/CRYING PUPS

    Clocks wrapped in a towel sound like the Mom's heartbeat and do help settle an unhappy pup.  If possible, allow your pup time to quiet itself.  Attending every howl will ensure that howling works to get your attention.  Play a radio or tv when you are away to keep the pup company.  Give the pup safe things to chew on to alleviate loneliness and boredom.

CORRECTIONS

    Be kind and patient.  Do not hit or grab your pup as these actions contribute to hand shy, people shy, or aggression out of fear or self defense.  There is nothing worse than a fear biting pup.  Pups should love your hands and crave your touch.  Teach with positive motivation and touch over & under the head, stroke their body, play with their butts.  Use both fast and slow hand actions, soothing and upbeat vocal reassurance.
    If your pup does something wrong, it must be caught in the act.   Respect your pup and your pup will respect and want to please you.  Never discipline in anger; never discipline after the fact assuming the pup remembers what it did!  Never train when you are tired, upset or stressed.  Allow your pup to tell you when it feels poorly or doesn't understand or when it is unsure.   This is the same body language you'll need to respect in your pup when they reach adult age.   Read your pup and it'll help you & your pup function as a team much sooner.  Try different training methods.  One training method will not work on every pup.  Educate yourself so you can educate your pup.  Don't expect from your pup what you  haven't taken the time to learn how to teach properly and adequately to raise the probability of success.
    Use alternative behavior techniques.  For barking, ask the pup to sit or down.  For chewing toys, remove the toy and give them a chewbone.  For jumping on furniture, ask your pup to lie at your feet and give it a chewbone.  For jumping on you, ask your pup to sit at your feet and when it does, hold the collar, praise and pet lovingly.  You must be consistent for your pup to be consistent.  Use the same command words consistently and be sure your family members do also.
    If your pup is going through a shy stage and believe me some will, be patient.  Forcing your pup through the stage will do more harm than good.  Don't hide your pup in the house, however; this is counterproductive.  Place the pup in social atmospheres but expect nothing from your pup.   Demand nothing from your pup.  Do not show your pup during this time.  Dog smart people may feed it a cookie or pat it.  We recommend when your pup is small, you be sure your friends have treats (small pieces) in their pockets.  When the pup goes up to them, they simply feed the pup and then stroke and even play if the pup desires.  This teaches your pup that good things come from people and they can be trusted.  We recommend you hand off the lead to your pup to a dog-savvy friend so they can walk, play and/or potty your pup.  Your pup needs to learn to trust all people.  Teach your pup to shake hands or do high-fives; this is a trick that your pup can enjoy doing for others as well as you - it's an icebreaker and puts smiles on everyone's faces.
    Be sure your pup gets some private, quiet time.  They do tire easily at a young age and they need their rest.
    Don't expect your pup to be perfect; it's not an adult.  Don't break the spirit by demanding perfection at too young an age.  Teach at the pup's level.  You have plenty of time for your pup to become an adult overachiever.  Don't let people grab your pup; this creates a distrusting hand-shy pup.  If someone wants to walk your pup, attach a leash and hand the leash over.  Don't let people grab your pup by the collar.

    Aussies have several ear sets.  They don't have to have perfectly folded forward ears to win in the breed ring.  If the judge is putting up earsets only, there is something wrong with the judge.  If you desire the perfectly folded forward ears, then you may have to do some massaging, taping or gluing of your pup's ears during the teething period.   We produce many earset types here at Legends and do not guaranty perfectly folded forward ears.
    The teething period can run from two months through nine months, sometimes even one year.  The teething period is making those ears do remarkeable and amusing things.  Remember that using improper glue or tape or glueing or taping where there is no air circulation might result in an ear infection or loss of part of an ear.  Be careful and reasonable.  If you glue or set your pup's ears, it's your responsibility when you breed to notify your buyers that your pup's earset was enhanced as it's progeny may not produce the preferred earset.  There are tons of methods for setting ears.  Normally the worst ear period is from 4 months to 5 months.  Some funky earsets are gorgeous once the pup is through teething; others end up lopsided due to the ear cartlidge setting with a break in the fold.  You cannot fix a pup's ear once the break has incurred.  Know your breed standard - there are many acceptable Aussie earsets. There is more to your dog than the earsetJ Keep the ears clean. However, don't get water inside the ear if you can help it. If you suspect an ear infection, get the pup treated by a vet asap. If you suspect your dog has picked up a tick, see the vet. These are easily and quickly removed. Timely removal will alleviate much discomfort for your pet.

TEETHING

    Your pup will teeth its worst probably around four months of age.  The bite can do crazy things during this period of time.  Bites go off, teeth come and go, it gets crazy.  By six months, you should have a good idea of the bite, ie scissors hopefully.  Some dogs have actually taken until one year to come to a full scissors bite.  Dentition can be discerned between the sixth and twelfth month.  It's your responsibility to discern missing teeth, dental or bite problems.  Do check your pup timely.  Give your pup plenty of safe chew toys.  Don't panic at 4 months if the bite is no longer a scissors; it may even be crooked scissoring on one side but not the other.  Swollen gums give the illusion of a bad bite.  Wait till the 6th month and then you should be able to discern the bite.  Some even bites go back to scissors by one year of age.  By one year, bites are normally set for life.  As a dog ages, sometimes around six years or so of age, the bite can revert to an even bite.
    Watch tugawar games.  Keep them reasonable.  Jerking baby teeth can be rough on a bite.  Allow your pup to do the pulling and keep it reasonable.  Do not jerk toys, ropes, or objects out of the pup's mouth.  Gently open the mouth and remove them with a "give" command.
    Remember the bottom jaw grows slower than the top jaw so be patient while your pup goes through this difficult growth period.  Your pup can run a temperature when teething.  Your pup will leave baby teeth on your floor - watch your toddlers so they don't eat these teeth!  Pups can also have loose stools during this period of time.  Patience is a virtue during this time for both pup and owner.

TOYS

    Be sure all dog toys are safe.  Toss them when wear appears, especially rope toys that are frayed.  Broken bone parts have put many a pup in the hospital.  Start a toybox and teach your pup that these are his.  Your pup will then hopefully learn quickly to leave your personal items alone. Teach your children NOT to leave dangerous toys around, small pieces of games, coins (change from purses or pockets), buttons, etc. Pups are like small children and can easily be killed from foreign objects lodging in their throats or ending up in their stomachs causing blockages or infections.

YARD & VEHICLES

    Do not drive a vehicle around your dog.  Be kind, remove your pup.  It only takes one time to maim, kill or severely handicap a pup due to your neglect and insistence on putting them in harm's way. You don't drive around your children; don't drive around your dog. You don't put your kids in the back of your pickup in all kinds of weather (hot & cold), leave them unattended, etc.; don't do this to your dog! Use a crate, bungee it down so it never scoots or falls out, and protect your dog from the elements, your eratic driving:), other dogs jumping into the pickup and attacking your dog, temptation of your dog to run away, temptation of someone to steal your dog, temptation of your dog to bite or get in a dog fight, too hot a pickup bed (many people burn their dog's pads up in pickup beds - it's really quite cruel!), slipping & sliding in the pickup, wrecks in which your dog is thrown out, hanging by the neck because you insisted on tying your dog to the pickup while driving, and the beat goes on. A crate is cheap insurance your dog is safe and an indication you care about your dog's wellbeing! You take water for you to drink on trips; take water for your dog as well.
    Use a fenced area for exercise that is safe.  Aussies jump & climb fences.  Therefore, plan your fence accordingly and error on the side of the dog not your pocketbook.  Your pup can get killed or severly injured by improper fencing.  Remember they can dig under and escape. More injuries are caused by fencefighting than actual one-on-one fighting. Watch putting pens side by side. Play fighting and real fighting can both cause injuries.  It's better to be safe than sorry at the expense of your pet and your wallet let alone your heart in the loss of or injury to a pet.  Remember outside dogs can get into your yard also.  You are putting your dog at risk of a fight, illness, injury, or worse death if you tie your dog where other dogs can get to it; use a shock system for yard control where other dogs are not subject to the shock system but can get to your dog.  Dogproof  your yard for the wellbeing of your dog and to keep others out.  Be fair to your dog. Teach your dog to down by you or away from you so you can save it from being ranover, from bothering guests upon arrival, from getting in harms way.
    Give your Aussie a safe haven from the weather. Use a doghouse, a porch, a crate with the door removed.  Be sure the pup has shade and fresh water.
    Dogruns are super.  If you wire the bottom also and cover in sand, cedar/alpine shavings and some straw, your pet will be nice and comfy and the run will stay pretty and not be an eyesore.  You can even use a tarp for shade or weather protection from the elements.  Using bedding allows you to remove the soiling without it contaminating the dirt below.  Watch for ants and bugs; cedar bedding helps in this regard.

ID

    Please microchip or tattoo your pet.  We also recommend a collar with your pet's name and phone.  We use collars that if caught in a fence, they will come off.  You don't want your dog to choke.  Use buckle collars only. Remember that dogs can choke on any kind of collar, even in a crate.  Beware. Take a picture of your dog. If it gets lost, you can post a recent photo.

BREEDING

    If your pup will be breeding stock, plan your breedings carefully for the wellbeing of your pup and the pups as well.  You need to adhere to the structure and purpose of this breed.  You'll need to do a Contract with any buyer stipulating the terms and conditions of the sale of any progeny of your pup.  Protect the progeny from puppy mills, improper and abusive breeding practices, sales to nonqualified or abusive, or neglectful buyers.  Breeding is expensive and time consuming when done correctly so be prepared to ensure the wellbeing of the dam, her puppies and the Aussie breed as a whole.

Beware of the Following

    Breeding merle to merle can result in deaf or blind pups, hearing or sight loss.

    A tri colored pup with a merled tail can be a phantom merle and when mated to a merle could result in problem pups.

    Your male can produce pups at six months of age.  Your bitch pup can cycle anywhere from six months to two years for her first cycle.  She can stand anywhere from 3 to 15 days into her heat.  She can have a silent heat cycle, very little bleeding.  Beware of your bitch's wellbeing and check her regularly.

    It is your responsibility if you breed to see that pups are placed in a safe,  loving environment and that they do not end up in pet stores, flea markets, or in Aussie rescue.  Please take your responsibility seriously and plan your litters wisely, not abusing your bitch in the process.  Only breed if you plan to enhance the breed.  Pups should come from sound breeding stock, ie., titled or proven on a ranch, search & rescue, therapy, etc., hip and eye annually certified, brucellosis tested.  The market should not be flooded with unnecessary breedings at the detriment of the breed.  You should have approved homes for fifty percent of the progeny prior to breeding.  Do not breed your bitch on every heat cycle & certainly no more than four litters in a lifetime.  Spay your bitch by age seven or sooner.  Let her live a long, heathly life.  Don't make her whelp pups in her veteran or senior years!

    If breeding, CERF eye clear the sire & dam EVERY year they are capable of reproducing.  If showing in performance, CERF eye clear once a year to ensure your dog can see well enough to perform safely.  Contact a certified ophthalmologist and have your dog's eyes checked for their safety and wellbeing just as you do yours.

COURTESY OF C.A. SHARP, Genetic's expert

CERF exams are performed on all breeds of dogs to screen for whatever might be a known problem in each breed and note unusual ones.

In Aussies, the most common are cataracts and iris coloboma, with Collie Eye Anomaly and persistent pupilary membrane being of moderate concern.  Distichaisis is on the rise.  Progressive retinal atrophy, retinal dysplasia (independent of CEA) and glaucoma have been seen but are extremely rare.  Merle ocular dysgenesis (homozygous merle eye) also occurs, but since we know this is the result of breeding two merles together the source of the problem is obvious.

Young pups (six weeks of age) are checked to screen for the congenital defects seen in CEA and for PPM.

    If Breeding, get an OFA or PennHip or both rating.  For an OFA, your vet can take an xray of your dog's hips.  Two years of age is the right time to do this.  That xray is then forwarded to the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals for an official hip rating.  When you go to the vet's office, take your dog's registration papers with you.  Some vets do use anesthesia to do this procedure.  It takes about five to six weeks to get your official rating returned to you.  All dysplastic dogs should be neutered or spayed.  Neither you or your veterinarian can second guess what the OFA rating will be on your dog; IT MUST BE MAILED IN TO BE CERTIFIED and be applicable.

    You can prelim earlier than two years but you'll not get an official rating.  Prelims are wise to do on a performance dog to ensure soundness prior to stressing those joints or spending a ton of money in training costs in preparation for performance.

    You can get your dog Pennhipped even as a puppy.  You will receive a percentage placement which tells you where your dog fits in the range of normal Aussie hips.

    While your dog is under anesthesia, this is a good time to get your dog tattooed.  We recommend using their ASCA registration number.  It's also a good time to DNA your dog.  It ensures puppies can be tracked back to their genetic parents.

    You need to brucellosis test both sire & dam.  The vet will need to draw blood to do this.  It takes a few days to get the results so don't wait till the last minute.  Brucellosis is a serious disease and causes sterilization.

    Get a good book on whelping and caring for pups before breeding.  Have your vet on call when your bitch is whelping.  Get a mentor, someone who has successfully bred and raised pups and seek their advise and recommendation.  Have that mentor on call also.   Feed your bitch a highgrade dog food.  Be sure your bitch was up to date on boosters prior to mating.  Have some Petcal on hand for when the bitch is nursing.  It has extra calcium.  You'll need a whelping box, portapen, heat pad or heat lamp, draft free delivery area, extra towels, lots of newspaper, paper and pencil to write down delivery (descriptions including tails), weights and you'll need scissors, alcohol and gentle iodine for umbilical cords.  Deliveries can get complicated so be prepared.  Dew claws and tails need to be removed at 3 days of age.  Dams need lots of food and water.  Dams sometimes get diarrhea following delivery, more likely at when the pups are 3 or 4 days of age.  Beware and be careful what you give your dam because the pups will be getting the same things.  Isolate the dam and pups from visitors and other dogs until you know the temperament of the dam.  Some dams are protective; you don't want anyone bitten.   Respect your dam's wishes.   You don't want any disease coming in to the pups or dam.  Be sure your dam gets some rest and don't breed your dam back to back (every heat cycle) and do spay  your dam at a reasonable age to alleviate uterus infections and difficult births.  Seek veterinarian advice and attention timely and wisely.

Breeding is a serious affair of the heart and the pocketbook.  Be sure you can afford it before you do it.

TRAINING

Retrieving
    Play lots of retrieve games.  Play hide and seek with the toys, tease with the toys, throwing short distances until a good retrieve is underway.  Make a fuss.  Don't play retrieve with two dogs at once.  It can result in dog fights or loss of retrieve drive for the weaker driven retrieving pup.  Use lots of retrieve items so your pup learns to bring back anything and everything.  Never jerk a retrieve item from a pup's mouth.  Teach  your pups to "give."  Later incorporate your downs & sits into the retrieve for more fun.

Herding
    Expose your pup to stock but do not let your pup work.  It takes a long time for mental and physical maturing to be such that the pup can work safely.  Never chastise your pup for harassing stock.  Simply remove the pup from temptation.  Protect your pup from the stock.  A pup scared by stock might not work.  A pup can be seriously injured by any stock.
    Teach your pup to "down".  Teach our pup to "come."  Teach your pup to "stay."  These commands are integral commands when you begin your stock work.
    When of age, start your pups on fetching sheep.  Keep the session short and positive.  Use a positive trainer not an abusive one.  Preferably use one familiar with Australian Shepherds and one respectful of their working type. THEY SHOULD NOT THROW THINGS AT YOUR DOG. THEY SHOULD NOT SLAM YOUR DOG AROUND. THEY SHOULD NOT HIT YOUR DOG. If they do these things, they are not trainersJ
    Working a pup before it is physically mature can injure growth plates and/or turn the dog off due to inability to perform.  They cannot maneuver as well as an  adult because they are growing both mentally and physically.   Once growth plates are injured, there is no fixing the problem.  Mentally pups can be stressed by both the stock and the handler let alone the trainer.  Wait for your pup to mature.  You have plenty of time for your pup to become the herding dog it was bred to be.
    We offer a herding manual and video for those that attend our doggy camps and/or clinics.  You are welcome to order these.  Just remember, attending the camps or clinics serves to enhance the information in both educational sources.  These are in-house products..

Obedience
    Begin teaching "watch" commands, "cookie" reward words, down, sit, and come even with hand signals from the get-go.  Make sessions VERY SHORT and VERY FUN but do them often.
    Use a loose leash to train your puppy on lead.  Tight leads make a puppy leash dependent and teach them to pull you around.  Be gentle with little necks - don't jerk and pull; necks can be permanently injured.
    Join an obedience puppy class and then follow up with obedience competition trainers, not pet trainers.
     At Legends, we teach the utility stand first, controlled walking, attention walking, tucked moving & stationary sit, accordion moving & stationary down, come with front, get-it for fetch work, give for fetch work, find it for tracking fun, wait for patience and reward, leave it for not bothering toys, food, other dogs, or people and back for going through doors.  We socialize our pups as much as is reasonable and practical.  We use only positive motivational techniques and lots and lots of games.  We go at the dog's pace, teach at the dog's level, adapt to the dog (not vice-a-versa).   Five minute training sessions only but lots of them intermittently throughout the day.
 
 

Biting
    Some dogs are lovenippers.  If you hit your dog to stop this behavior, you'll create a handshy Aussie.  Do an alternate behavior such as sit and the dog cannot nip in order to get petted.
    Remember Aussies will protect their loved ones.  If you have kids and they get in fight with their friends, your Aussie may jump in and protect your child.  A bite by an Aussie can be a correction to them but an aggression problem for us. Don't set your Aussie up to bite.  Supervise kids and dogs.  Educate kids and educate dogs.  Don't train  your dog on kids if your dog is a nipper, jumper, or toy/food protector; it's dangerous for the kids and unfair to the dog.  If your dog has a problem with kids, work slowly through the problem with a behavior specialist.  Sometimes people blame the dog when it's the kids that need trained.  Subject your dog in all fairness to dog-smart kids and your dog will love kids. Kids can behave worse than dogs periodicallyJ
    Don't let your Aussie go nose-to-nose with every dog.  It can contribute to disease.  One never knows if another dog is aggressive or not; it can contribute to a fight.  If  you are in a class setting, you are teaching your to visit rather than focus on you.  Eye stares are sometimes challenges so divert eye contact if you discern a problem. EYE STARES FROM PEOPLE are challenges, just as they are from dogs. Watch your guest's behavior and your dog's reaction so-as to know if you need to remove your dog from your guest's presence. Don't leave your dog alone unsupervised with your guest.

Showing
    If you decide to show your dog, be aware that there are those that might steal or poison your dog.  Place your pet in a safe location.  Protect your pet from children or spectators who would bother or prod your dog unnecessarily.  Protect your dog from disease.  Use a mat for your portapen.  Allowing your dog to lay on grass can possibly encourage bug bites or fleas or ticks, possibly even disease.  Take bottled water and your own dog food on trips; this will alleviate diarrhea opportunity.  Feed smaller quantities.  Dogs normally eat less when traveling and travel and show better on lighter stomachs.  Don't let your dog pick up food off the ground or eat treats given out by everyone at the shows.  Too much change in diet can contribute to diarrhea or going completely off food.  Eating off the ground can result in poisoning, in addition to the bad habit of ground sniffing at the most inopportune times.  There is a time to "track with the nose" and time when is inappropriate.  Teach your dog "leave it" - leave the food, leave the person, leave the shoe, etc.  It's a very useful phrase and it can be lifesaving!

Body Slamming or Jumping on You
    Some Aussies are body slammers of not only dogs but people.  Curb this in the young pup; it's much easier than trying to curb the adult Aussie.  Body slamming can result in injury to growth plates or contribute to torn ligaments, both resulting in costly surgery.  Playing is fine but body slamming can be dangerous.  Teach your Aussie to play without injury to himself or others.  We use "knock it off" for bodyslamming correction.  We will run at the dog and give it the command, posturing in a dominant manner. We teach our dogs when they jump up on us to sit and be petted. If they insist on continuing to jump on us, we pinch their toes. These is much, much better than kneeing them which can damage them, flipping them which can certainly hurt them.

COMMON DANGERS

1. Antifreeze.  One teaspoonful can kill a dog.  Never leave it accessible and do not change your antifreeze where it can spill.  Antifreeze is very sweet smelling and tasting to a dog.

2. Rat Poison.  Any type of poison is obviously very dangerous.  Do not think your dog cannot get into or fit into a particular space - they probably can and will plus they will more than likely eat the dead poisoned rodent. Many an Aussie has died of mouse or rat poison! It's a painful, slow death.

3. Insecticides.   All are a detriment, both causing illness, some causing death.  These can be eaten or even obsorbed through your Aussie's footpads, licked off their coats, absorbed into their skin, or rubbed into their eyes via their paws.

4. Loose Change.  Pennies, nickels, dimes, quarters all contain zinc which will slowly leach into your dog's system after being dissolved by stomach acid.

5. Medicines.  Over the counter medicines such as aspirin, ibuprofen, tylenol in particular, antihistamines, nose sprays, etc. are dangerous to your pet and should be kept away.  Don't leave your purse with medicines or lipsticks or makeup where your Aussie can get to these things.

6. Flea Spray.  Be careful with a new flea spray.  Too much can kill or make your dog very sick.  Tick collars have been known to send dogs to the doggy hospital also.  Always observe your dog following any newly applied products.

7. Treated woods.  Wolmanized wood, used extensively for decks, fences, etc. has been treated with arsenic to repel insects.  Be sure your dog cannot chew any of this type of wood.  Keep them away from freshly treated or painted woods.

8. Chocolate/Onions.  A small amount of chocolate can be deadly.  Watch your cabinets.  Aussies can pull themselves up and steel food; some can even jump onto cabinets, tables, chairs and help themselves.

9. Plants.  Both indoor & outdoor.  The following are dangerous:  Daffodil, bulbs, Japanese yew, Diffenbachia, Rhubarb, Lilies of the Valley, Nightshade, Caladium Castor Beans, Christmas Rose, Mistletoe, Poinsettia, Philodendrons, English Ivy, Bleeding Heart, Foxglove, Larkspur, or Delphinium, Tomator & Potato plants, Azaleas, Rhododendron and Holly.  Watch out also for wild mushrooms.

10. Paint.  Paint, paint thinner, cleanup rags, furniture stripper, painted chew toys (your children's painted toys), peeling window sills or woodwork.

FIRST AID

    We recommend you keep a first aid kit for your dog.  We take one with us to shows and always have one on hand at home.  Check with your vet for the proper supplies.  Always remember to keep electrolytes on hand.  We keep products for diarrhea (Pepto tablets), insect bites (benadryl), and injuries (triple antibiotic and vet wraps along with gentle iodine, corona for pads or small cuts, buffered aspirin for aches & pains, dexamathazone & penicillan for snake bites.  Every vet has a preference and a good first aid kit can save you vet bills and/or the life of your dog.  Ask your vet specifically for advice on your first aid doggy kit.

A LISTING OF OUR LIBRARY OF BOOK, VIDEOS, AND RESOURCE MATERIALS FOLLOWS BELOW (SCROLL DOWN)

BOOKS

Tracking From the Ground Up by Sandy Ganz & Susan Boyd

Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor

Agility Training by Jane Simmons-Moake

*Structure & Terminology by Edward Gilbert & Thelma Brown

Lessons from a Sheepdog by Phillip Keller

Working Dogs by Neil Rennie (breeding/training/feeding & care)

Australian Shepherds by Joseph Hartnagle

*Canine Orthopedics by Robert Rooks & Connie Jankowski

New Choices in Natural Healing for Dogs & Csts by Amy Shojai

A Way of Life Sheepdog Training, Handling & Trailing by H Glyn Jones

*Sheepdog Training, An All-breed Approach to Herding by Mari Taggart

*Herding Dogs Progressive Training by Vergil S Holland

*All About Aussies by Jeanne Joy Hartnagle

Child-Proofing Your Dog by Brian Kilcommons

The Culture Clash, Jean Donaldson

Dogs, A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior & Evolution by Coppinger

*Help My Dog Has An Attitude by Gwen Bohnenkamp

*Behavior Problem in Dogs by William E Campbell

*So Your Dog's Not Lassie by Betty Fisher & Suzanne Delzio

I Love My Dog, But by Joy Tiz M.S.J.D.

*Dogs Behaving Badly (A-Z Guide) by Dr. Nicholas Dodman

Teach Your Dog to Behave by Bashkim Dibra

*New Choices in Natural Healing for Dogs & Cats by Amy Shojai

*Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook, by Giffin & Carlson

*The Dog Listener by Jan Fennell

MANUALS/SMALLER BOOKS

*Choose to Heel by Dawn Jecks

*Obedience Judging by William A Oxandale

*The Structure and Movement of the Australian Shepherd in Drawings by Victoria Mistretta

Advanced Manual/Lessons plans for open&utility training by Jo Anne Carson & Lois Coryell

*The No Force Method of Dog Training by Bernie Brown

Clicker Training for Dogs by Karen Pryor

Body Posture & Emotions by Suzanne Clothier

Tracking Training and Advanced Tracking Training by Wentworth Brown

*The Canine Aggression Workbook by James O'Heare, Dip.C.B.

*Help for Your Shy Dog by Deborah Woods

The Cautious Canine/How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears by Patricia B McConnel Ph.D

Feeling Outnumbered? How to Manage and Enjoy Your Multi-Dog Household

Dogs are From Neptune by Jean Donaldson

Dogs Behaving Badly

*Legends Herding Training Manual & Video Tape

The New Better Behavior in Dogs, by William E Campbell

Felling Outnumbered? How to Manage & Enjoy Your Multi-Dog Househohld by Karen

Tracking Fundamentals by Sandy Ganz

*The Puppy Puzzle by Pat Hastings

*Herding I, II, and III by Jeannie Joy Hartnagle

*The American Kennel Club Video Series Dog Steps (structure and movement)

Sirius Puppy Training by Ian Dunbar

Gary Wilkes Click & Treat

Lockeye Border Collies/starting your dog on sheep/cattle

Anne Marie Silverton's Obedience Training Videos

This may not be current as we are forever adding to our library. Our theory is one can NEVER know enough and all dogs are to be treated and trained individually with the handler doing more adapting than the dog. We change methodologies depending upon genetics, canine behavior, environment and history plus age, need, timeframe and desire. Additionally simply because we list or recommend a book doesn't always mean we totally agree with everything the author says or does. We "steal" and incorporate ideas from lots of people, books, and experience.